Passport Owners Association For Passport Owners and our Friends

Hi John,
Many thanks for the information on the chainplates. After sending off my inquiry last night I came across a paragraph in Bob Perry's recent book "Yacht Design According to Perry" in his chapter on Passport Yachts. He speaks highly of the Huntingford Passport 42/Slocum 43. But his comments in that chapter also note that the head of Passport Yachts Wendel Renkin, insisted on modifying the design of many of the marine designers.

When we bought our P42, the surveyor inspected one chain plate by removing the teak trim under the deck, inside a cabinet on our starboard side. The fiberglass covering the chainplate there is a bit translucent, enough to detect any rust color on the embedded chainplate. Ours showed no sign of deterioration. He did not want to do any more "demolition" for a pre-purchase survey, but he advised us to periodically expose a different chainplate in the same way to inspect it.

Harvey,

Hello. I have the P42. The chain plates are integral and fiberglassed into
the hull. They form sort of an 'h". They are extremely difficult to
remove. I have not heard of any well maintained P42 boats needing a
replacement. One owner did so just because he wanted to. The deck around

Have any members knowledge of how to access, evaluate and possibly
replace the chainplates on a Huntingford Passport 42? I was recently
looking at one as a possible replacement for our Tayana 37. I liked
the interior and cockpit, but was concerned about various maintenance
issues. I could see solutions to virtually all the obvious issues, but

I had my starboard forward chain plate replaced. I also had to have a new
knee fabricated since it was so badly deteriorated. Fair weather makes sense
but I know the guy who did mine did nothing special to the mast as I am
aware of. Not knowing how accessible your chain plate is it is hard for me

Hi All,
I hope everyone in the Bay Area enjoyed the boat show this weekend. I
went to the rigging seminar Brion Toss put on and talked with him more
at length yesterday as he came out to do a rig tune on a boat at my
marina. He encouraged me to look into something that has been one of
those fears lurking in the back of my head for a while, the dreaded

I've had good luck with the Nicro solar day/night mushroom vent in our VBerth.  It's lasted many years - with a battery replacement every few years.  I recommend the stainless shield (it protects the plastic).
 
Fan is reversable (two propellers) so can push or pull.  It isn't the same as a hatch, but we do get enough airflow to control mildew.

That *&!@# mushroom vent leaks no matter how tight you screw it, how long you've had your boat or whether you use your boat as a submarine or not. We have managed to seal it 20 years ago by cutting an oversized gasket out of a 7mm wet suit. Stopped the leaking, but we have NEVER unscrewed it since. I am continually amazed that Vetus still has the effrontery to sell that thing. Boy, can it flood everything beneath it!

Well, I do do a lot of offshore sailing, and you are right. When it's
old, it will not keep water out.
When new, it works fine.

However, we often tape up the hatches and vents for the first three days
of a Pacific Crossing because we HATES getting wet.

Michael

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Passport Owners Association [link]

I should also have mentioned that the little
solar fan vent in the galley pulls air out,
doesn´t draw it in. Just need to reverse the fan.
Nicro has a spec for how many cfm the device
allegedly draws; no idea if it actually lives up to the spec.

Phil

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Passport Owners Association [link]

If you do a lot of offshore sailing that mushroom vent has to go. asap.

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I think Vetus sells those mushroom vents. Maybe Nicro as well.

Nicro also sells the solar-powered vent, which I
have one of in the galley. I don´t know when the
POs installed it -- late 80s or 90s sometime --
but mine has been running for six years now. You
put a rechargeable C cell in it so it charges

Now that one I can answer:

My one experience with the solar vent was that it was worthless. If you
are trying to induce airflow in the boat, a windscoop will do a million
times more work.

As to the mushroom vent, I have a vee berth, but the mushroom over the
berth is a flat Vetus such as can be found here:

Amended question: besides the source for the mushroom vent, are there
opinions about putting in a solar ventilator or not? I have read that
the solar units do not function for much more than a year. Are they
water tight?

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There's a hole in the forward head ceiling for a mushroom vent on our
P40 SV Iemanja. Has anyone tried to replace theirs or has a source for
it?

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It's actually a nice stout unit. Better than a lot of other manual
marine heads I've used. A lot stronger pump and handle situation than
the one in the rear quarter berth. I saw a parts kit for it at West
Marine but I'd already filled my cart with parts for something else
that was already broken.

I've been using a 44# Bruce on the west coast of Mexico, with 350 feet
of chain of unknown but sufficient size. Works fine in mostly sand
and the mud bottom in Barra. If I had to buy another one I'd go a
little heavier, just on general principals.

We had a similar issue on our boat but we caught it when we were
servicing the teak decks.
(Actually it was our back pad eyes that had the issue and not the ones
for storing the running backs...)
It seems those backing plates were added by someone here in California
during commissioning (China Doll was FOB to Long Beach on the back of

I'd sure like to see Rick Cooley weigh in on the adsorbent. He knows
all about that stuff.
I wonder what happens if you accidentally squirt diesel through it.
Ruins it, I bet, and I'd sure not want to bake it.
Michael
Cayenne (Now considerably drier thanks to a dehumidifier) P40

Now you're talking. I assumed my $1,350 quote was the going rate. Next time I will check around for a more reasonable company. I hear what you are saying about the condensation. I always try to keep my tanks full, but I'm also working on a project to put moisture traps in the tank vents.
They are 2.5" acrylic tubes about 4 feet long filled with silica gel dessicant. The dessicant turns from blue color to clear as it absorbs moisture. I'll have to remove the dessicant and bake it occasionally in the oven to dry it out. If it gets saturated too quickly and becomes a maintenance headache, I'll give up on it. Of course, if the tank vents take in any seawater, the dessicant is worthless.